copyright 2023 LanRic Journeys. All Rights Reserved

Valletta, Malta

Transfăgărășan Highway, Romania

Acknowledgements

Son Doong Cave, Quang Binh, VN

Dedication

Leticia, Amazonas, Colombia

always moving Foreward

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

Sarajevo - part 1

Our Lessons

Sarajevo: what comes to mind when one hears this famous—indeed infamous—city’s ​name? "Bullets?" our tour guide proposed: "Maybe some of you wish to stand in the place ​where history’s most infamous bullet took the life of Franz Ferdinand, bringing us all into th​e first World War? Or maybe you have heard about the bullet holes that scar every buildin​g here in our capital, and you wish to learn about the more recent atrocities that took plac​e here?" Indeed, we learned that even the name “Balkan” itself is derived from a Turkis​h word meaning “Blood and Honey”—driving home the fact that the Balkan Peninsula is ​a land rich in resources... and in conflict​.​

"Honestly, America is involved in many wars," he continued. "For this reason, I am no​t surprised that grown Americans today barely remember our struggle from their childhoo​d televisions. While you are here, you will see remnants of just how horrible this 1990s wa​r was for all of us who survived—but I hope you will also see what a beautiful and moder​n country we are. Remember, please, that this city was quite beautiful and modern befor​e this war, too!​”

This last point is strikingly true: despite its war-torn facades, Sarajevo unquestionably ​a bustling, "Westernized" city, trying hard to respect its tumultuous past while also showin​g that it has so much more to offer. It is equipped with all expected modern amenities an​d conveniences, including high-quality drinkable tap water even in its preserved histori​c buildings. Ethnically, it was long considered a 'melting pot,' in which Muslims, Orthodo​x Christians, Catholics, and Jews lived peacefully alongside one another. We certainly fel​t very welcomed as tourists, and we absolutely loved the variety of architecture here: som​e pedestrian streets seemed indistinguishable from classic Western European towns, wherea​s adjacent streets made us feel like we were right back in Middle-Eastern bazaars of Turkey.​ Unfortunately, we are told this visible cultural harmony does not extend to politics, wher​e ethnic divisions still run deep in leadership. ​

Sarajevo - part 2

Our Lessons

Nowhere is Sarajevo's ethnic diversity on better display than in the variety of delicious cuisines that can be discovered within just a few minutes' walk. Restaurants serving hearty Eastern European classics such as beef goulash are plentiful. Just moments away, one is likely to find a Middle Eastern restaurant serving delicious “burek”: a meat-stuffed pastry that is served in slices, like pizza (Bosnians make the best burek, in our experience!). And don’t get Eric started on the "Bosnian coffee"! It resembles Turkish coffee, in which ground coffee is poured directly into the cup without a filter. In Bosnian coffee, however, the cup is heated a second time over an open flame, giving it a slightly charred flavor and allowing the grinds to form a thick froth on the surface. To my husband’s delight, Bosnians don’t mix sugar into their coffee—instead, like cookies in milk, they dip raw sugar cubes directly in the coffee and nibble on the coffee-saturated sugar cubes! To conclude with a fond memory: one of our favorite meals of the entire year was at a warm, cozy family-owned restaurant on a cold and rainy day, where we had the most richly-flavored beef stew, accompanied by a heavenly loaf of flakey, buttery homemade bread.

Sarajevo - part 3

Our Lessons

Sarajevo’s roses don’t bloom…

Bosnia’s history of war surrounded us as we walked these urban alleyways. A model of the car used by archduke Franz Ferdinand rests at the site of his assassination. Bomb craters filled with blood-red resin are scattered throughout the streets. Called “Sarajevo Roses,” these craters have been preserved to commemorate places where three or more people died from a mortar blast in the 1990s. Even as we pass a church we are reminded of war: the Cathedral of the Nativity, we learned, used to have a lead roof—but during World War II, it was removed an replaced with sheet metal, so that the lead could be used to make bullets!

Recalling those 90’s news headlines about the Bosnian war is heart-wrenching, and left many questions in our heads: Why had a modern city like Sarajevo been under attack for 4 years straight? How did the situation spiral out of control, with tragic loss of lives on both sides, so badly that some Serbian servicemen were willing to participate in increasingly horrible acts of terror... and genocide? In the following pages we try to make sense of this as best we can, so that we may again remind ourselves that history is never truly black and white... and that our actions are most often guided by our past experiences.

Sarajevo - part 4

Our Lessons

Bosnia's modern history stems from its origins within The Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia, a nation formed at the end of World War I. It consisted of six republics, including Bosnia-Herzegovina and Serbia. Following World War II, Yugoslavia was ruled by Marshal Josip Tito, who was successful in fostering a period of economic prosperity. Our tour guide commented that although it was a 'communist' nation, Yugoslavia was not part of the USSR (in fact, Tito opposed Soviet influence). Mr. Tito was well liked, as he allowed his people to enjoy levels of freedom not seen in most Eastern Bloc countries. Unfortunately, after Tito’s death in 1980, the nation suffered from poor leadership and hard economic times. In 1991, two Yugoslavian republics (Slovenia and Croatia) declared their independence. Following this, the primary sect of Bosnian leadership also rebelled against oppressive Yugoslavian rule, claiming Bosnians would have a better life if they were independent. This primarily-Muslim majority held a vote on independence in 1992; however, the large number of Orthodox Christian Bosnians of Serbian heritage boycotted the vote in protest, as they wished to remain part of Yugoslavia along with their brothers living in Serbia. Ignoring the absent votes, the government of Bosnia declared that 99.7% of participating voters had voted “Yes” (claiming a “unanimous” decision to secede from the Yugoslav union). The resulting declaration of independence angered the Orthodox Serbs of Bosnia, who felt their rights as citizens to protest had been ignored. Many reached out to their families still within the Yugoslavian union for help.

In response, Yugoslavia ordered its forces, primarily from the neighboring state of Serbia, to attack the city of Sarajevo, to help their 'forgotten' brothers and to force the newly-formed “Bosniak” government to back down. However, instead of surrendering, the pro-independence Bosniaks quickly organized a resistance army. What was predicted to be an 'easy win' for Yugoslav Serb forces escalated into a 4 year-long campaign of terror and persecution. As the Bosniak fighters dug in and refused to leave Sarajevo, Serbian general Mladić’s resorted to ordering the commencement of a medieval-style “siege”: Surround the fortified city, starve and demoralize the resistance into submission, using deliberate shelling and sniper attacks on the civilian population. Men, women and children were shot dead in the streets and through the windows of their homes by long-range snipers, hiding in the hills and occupying buildings half a mile away. Despite these horrific efforts to terrorize the Bosniaks into leaving, these people of Sarajevo showed the deepest commitment, continuing to fight and refusing to surrender their city.

Sarajevo - part 5

Our Lessons

As the war pressed on, the primarily-Muslim Bosniaks killed Serbs in return. Much of this killing was of opposing Yugoslav Serb attackers on the front lines; however, our Bosnian taxi driver also points to stories of Bosniaks who murdered entire Serbian families in retribution. Meanwhile, Yugoslav Serbian generals used stories such as these to stoke longstanding hatred and bigotry towards the Muslim Bosniaks (in a commonly-referenced example, General Mladić regularly referred to Bosnian Muslims as “the Turks," thus creating a dehumanizing association between Bosniaks and the 'evil' Ottoman Empire, which had oppressively ruled the Balkans many generations ago). As civilian casualties in Serbian villages mounted, Serbian military leaders amplified a growing sentiment amongst their tired, bitter ranks: if Serbs want to live in peace, the Bosniak Muslims who opposed them needed to be “cleansed” from this land...

Genocide followed. On March 8, 1995, over 7,000 Bosniak refugees were illegally captured as Mladić’s army marched unopposed into an understaffed United Nations “Safe Area” around Srebrenica. These 7,000 men, women, and children were summarily executed over just 1 week, starting July 13th. The logistics of the killings speak to their premeditation: Scores of buses were needed to move the men and boys to execution sites. Dozens of executioners, willing to shoot unarmed prisoners, needed to be recruited. Remote fields, a community center, and a farm were chosen as killing grounds. Backhoes and excavators were used to dig mass graves and fill them with corpses. The Bosnian war and genocide resulted in close to 100,000 civilian deaths, over 2 million people forcibly displaced, and between 20,000-50,000 women systematically raped.

Sarajevo - part 6

Our Lessons

In light of this history, reportedly confirmed by so many sources, it is difficult to imagine that the International Criminal Tribunal needed until 2017 to finally convict former Yugoslav Serbian general Mladić of committing genocide. At this rate, one cannot help but wonder how many other perpetrators of atrocities will never face judgment in their lifetimes. Even today in Bosnia, leadership is resisting a contingent of Serbs who are pushing to “cancel,” or whitewash, how this dark period of the nation's past is taught and spoken about. In response, on July 23, 2021, the Office of the High Representative criminalized the denial of genocide in Bosnia by federal offices. We are told many Serbs passionately opposed this step, still preferring to describe Srebrenica as a “revenge massacre,” despite the overwhelming evidence of how systematically the killings were carried out. It remains to be seen how this page in history will play out in the long run.

Our medical training teaches us that preventing a problem is always easier than “treating” it. Remembering history, understanding its complexity, and teaching our next generation the importance of considering others’ perspectives is key to this world’s successful future. If this resonates with you, consider taking a tiny step today to change the world: Do you know a child who loves to play on his or her tablet? Did you know that putting the screen away, and instead playing “pretend” together, is one of the best ways to get children used to “putting themselves in someone else’s shoes?” Using our imaginations while we are young helps us think independently and compassionately later in life!

U.N. “Peacekeepers”? Interestingly, there appears to be a belief here that the United Nations only made things worse by attempting to intervene during the Bosnian War. At the time of the initial Yugoslav Serbian siege, Bosnia had no formal army at all—minimal weapons, no body armor, no helmets. When the U.N. troops arrived, they provided light support in the form of "safe zones," but they refused to intervene in a military manner. This was a U.N. strategy to “maintain neutrality,” by providing no weapons or equipment to either side. However, this gesture was not equitable, as the Serbs were already being supplied all the weapons they needed by communist Yugoslavia. Our tour guide stated that many Bosnians initially perceived the U.N. as their “rescuers,” and consequently many waited to take their defense and personal safety into their own hands. Families decided to stay in Sarajevo, instead of running, thinking the U.N. would end the war within weeks (and when it did not, there was no longer an opportunity to escape). "The Bosniaks would have done great if given as many weapons and supplies as the United States later gave to Afghanistan," our tour guide openly admits. Instead, he feels the U.N. provided only false hope.

Sarajevo - part 7

Our Lessons

In defiant contrast with the U.N.'s inaction is the story of the Tunnel of Hope: a narrow, filthy, flooded passageway, whose construction beneath an active warzone is largely credited with saving the people of Sarajevo:

In an attempt to intervene in the war, U.N. forces reclaimed the Sarajevo airport back from the Serbs. Thereafter, only U.N. peacekeepers carrying humanitarian goods were allowed to pass across the airport. Unfortunately, this did little to help the resistance fighters within Sarajevo, who remained stranded without weapons or fuel in a city that was otherwise 100% surrounded by Serbian snipers. In desperation, brave Bosniaks would try to sprint across the "neutral" airport to reach supply lines on the other side. Sadly, this meant traversing a 450-meter stretch of exposed concrete and barbed wire, allowing the Serbian army occupying the nearby hills to fire upon them. Those who survived long enough to take shelter around the airport buildings were regularly escorted back empty-handed by U.N. enforcers of the international arms embargo. Today, the writings and images preserved in the "Sarajevo Tunnel Museum" convey a true sense of the helplessness felt by the Bosnians as a result of the United Nations' actions. Visitors are encouraged to think critically about the consequences of maintaining "neutrality" in the presence of injustice.

With Sarajevo's people at the brink of extermination and with no other options to supply its army, Bosniak leadership decided to undertake a ridiculous task: dig a tunnel under 800 meters of marshy warzone, all while Serbian artillery continuously pummeled the land above. They lacked skilled manpower, tools, or materials to complete the task; but Sarajevo's people demonstrated incredible resolve: They dug the tunnel by hand, with shovels and picks, 24 hours a day, nonstop for over 4 months. A rail for push-carts, communication lines, electric cables, and even an oil pipeline were eventually installed, providing at least a small stream of supplies from the outside world.

Every day, between 3-4,000 Bosnian soldiers/civilians and 30 tons of goods could now pass into an out of Sarajevo. All the while, Serbian mortars attempted to bombard the urban areas where the tunnel's two entrances were suspected to be. At the museum today, 9 video footage is played alongside haunting synthesizer music; to us, its real-life scenes were all-too reminiscent of the sci-fi warzone depicted in The Terminator. Soldiers passing through the tunnel immediately assume defensive positions as they scramble out to their smoldering, bombed-out city, the dark sky intermittently pierced by nearby explosions and rocket fire.

The Tunnel of Hope Museum provided our most sobering glimpse into this terrible tragedy—and simultaneously displayed the bravery, ingenuity, and determination of the Bosnian people. How ironic it is, that in the same year we American kids were idolizing a new fictional movie character named John Connor, a real group of freedom fighters had perfectly embodied his timeless quote: "There is no fate but what we make for ourselves."

Belgrade - part 1

Our Lessons

With Serbia and Bosnia so often portrayed as adversaries in the recent history of Sarajevo, it was particularly fascinating to experience these two capital cities back-to-back. On first impression, Belgrade, like Sarajevo, is a modern city with vibrant culture and a people who have great pride in their homeland. Both cities' "Old Towns" have beautiful stone streets that glisten in the rain, lined with a mix of architectural characteristics including ornate neoclassical/neorenaissance designs. While Sarajevo features more buildings of Middle Eastern style, Belgrade, on the other hand, features plenty of concrete communist modernism. Ads for Western brands and high-end chain stores are even more prominent in central Belgrade, which is also four times larger than its neighbor. Smoking indoors and outdoors is a popular past time in each of these two cities.

It is always reassuring to see how we humans, regardless of borders, all seem to enjoy many of the same simple pleasures in life—like coffee and music! Perhaps for this reason we should have been less surprised to hear Frank Sinatra being played by a Serbian quartet at a beautiful local restaurant (it seemed like quite a few locals knew the English lyrics to

“I Did it My Way”—certainly good words to live, by regardless of culture or creed!)

Belgrade - part 2

Our Lessons

"The war? Oh, you mean with Kosovo?"

Interestingly, the locals we spoke to in Belgrade stated that most people here don’t even think of Bosnia when the word “war” is mentioned. To them, it would seem the events of Bosnia are "in the past." Indeed, the Kosovo War, beginning in 1999 and promptly ending after NATO airstrikes on Yugoslav Serbian forces, is a more recent point of frustration. Our taxi driver, who served in the Serbian military during both wars, stated that he does not support what happened in Bosnia—in fact, his own (Serbian) family was stranded in Sarajevo during the 4-year siege. His words echoed what some Bosnians we met had also said: that wars only benefit a few, and greatly harm the vast majority.

Clearly, the people who migrated to the Balkan Peninsula generations ago come from diverse ethnicities and religious backgrounds. Unfortunately, perhaps like the American Civil War, the Serbs feel frustrated that Bosnia's territory, which they considered to be part of their homeland, has essentially “seceded from the Union." We are told Orthodox Serbs considered the Muslim Bosniak government’s 1992 declaration of independence to be outrageous, because they believed the voices of all the people who did not want to secede were ignored (a valid point, although complicated by the fact that the Orthodox Serbs intentionally boycotted the vote). Consequently, during the Bosnian War, many Yugoslav Serbs truly believed themselves to be “liberating” their own countrymen from a “hostile takeover.”

Belgrade - part 3

Our Lessons

Kosovo's fight for independence is a point of contention for similar reasons. Objectively, Kosovo's 90% Albanian population may argue that its relatively small ethnic Serbian population makes its situation very different from Bosnia's (5% ethnic Serbs in Kosovo, vs 30% ethnic Serbs in Bosnia). However, a deeper conversation reveals that Kosovo is considered by many Serbs to be the religious and historical heart of Serbia itself. We are told many Serbs make religious pilgrimages to the Orthodox churches in Kosovo, even referring to it as their “Jerusalem.” Having both trained in Massachusetts, the historical center of medical study in the United States, we wonder how we might react if we learned that a place so near and dear to our hearts wished to separate itself from our own beloved country.

This must not belittle or excuse the Bosnian genocide, nor any atrocity committed by either side during the war. But in trying to understand both Bosnian and Serbian perspectives during our visit, we hope to remind ourselves that the origin of any conflict is rarely cut-and-dry. As Marvel's Loki once speculated: “No one ‘good’ is ever truly good, and no one ‘bad’ is ever truly bad.” At least so far as an individual perceives his/her own situation and actions, this is almost certainly true!

Split

Our Lessons

A road trip across Croatia's gleaming Adriatic coastline provided our minds a much-needed transition from the philosophy of war to the beauty of nature and medieval cityscapes; yet as always, there was so much to be learned here!

Croatians are quick to point out that they live in the most "successful" of the former-Yugoslavian states; and if success is measured by how expensive a country is to visit, this may be a valid claim! Its pristine shores and forests undoubtedly give Croatia a competitive edge; but our tour guide asserts that Croatians were also quicker to drop communist-era economic strategies in favor of a 'modern' Western European-style market economy. "People here were more focused on jobs, and less focused on nostalgia and keeping old Russian traditions that didn't work—unlike Serbia!" noted one Dubrovnik local while taking a dig at his eastern neighbor.

As we made our first trip to a movie theater since the start of the pandemic, our walk took us through the Gripe Sports Centre in Split. Completed in 1979, this concrete jungle is a classic example of socialist "modernist" architecture. It has since turned into a graffiti artist's paradise. Although it is still a partially functional facility, we thoroughly enjoyed the dystopian vibes it gave off.

Hvar & Brac - part 1

Our Lessons

Perhaps the biggest highlight of our one-day speedboat tour of Hvar and Brac islands was, in fact, the boat itself: Built like a slender rocket with nine rows of just two seats, our driver launched us at high speeds over tall waves on a very stormy day! We were told that this boat model was designed by a former Olympic athlete, and that its center of gravity is so low that it cannot capsize. Each passenger must sit in a straddle position (yes, one leg on each side of a long chair) and hold onto a rail in front of them. Our tour guide stood perched at the front of the boat, dancing and blasting the latest high-energy club songs as we all got very, very wet!

Hvar & Brac - part 2

Our Lessons

While we did not see any Dalmatian dogs during our time here, we learned that the breed indeed originated in this coastal region of Dalmatia, Croatia! From a birds-eye view, this area is fittingly "spotted" with hundreds of small islands, with of some of the most memorable landscapes we have seen. These two main islands of Hvar and Brac are large and have multiple towns, public schools, convenience stores, and plenty of gourmet restaurants catering to tourists and wealthy locals. Going for a swim in the crystal-clear turquoise water seemed too good to pass up, even though it was quite chilly. As in Montenegro, we notice that people seem willing and able to swim anywhere here—there are literally steel ladders descending off boulders in the most precarious of places (We suspect the concept of “lifeguards” never existed in former Yugoslavia; perhaps everyone is just taught to swim at a young age?).

A surprising observation for us: it seems like soft sand is a 'privilege' that this part of the world rarely sees. Here, most "beaches" consist of small, jagged stones—unpleasant to walk over! However, that did not stop one determined little boy with a pail and shovel from trying his best to construct a "stone castle" (alas, by the time we departed, he had only achieved to build a "stone mound").

Dubrovnik - part 1

Our Lessons

Dubrovnik: an imposing city known for its six-meter-thick fortress walls, and a fascinating history which runs just as deep! It was a renowned capital of trade, rivaled economically only by the powerful empire of Venice, which sat on the opposite end of the Adriatic sea. Dubrovnik was built on the edge of a plateau, jutting menacingly out into the open water. Its massive walls underwent constant improvements and renovations between the 12th and 17th centuries. They required so much stone, that in the 1400s the city’s leadership imposed a mandate: any trader arriving to do business in the city must bring a stone with them! This was a laborious but effective strategy: the city has never been breached by a hostile army.

In need of contact lens solution, we unexpectedly stumbled upon one of Europe’s longest-operating pharmacies, founded in 1317 within Dubrovnik’s Franciscan Monastery! In old times the monks were entrusted with making herbal remedies for the city's population. Today it functions as a modern pharmacy, and also sells a large selection of natural creams and herbal teas.

Dubrovnik - part 2

Our Lessons

Dubrovnik has been a major vacation destination for Europeans for decades, but it was Game of Thrones that put this city on the map for many American tourists. Now, thanks to the show’s popularity, there are 3 direct flights from the U.S. to Dubrovnik airport! We are told that most Dubrovnik locals like the new business opportunities this increased fame has produced, and they enjoy being well-paid to serve as "extras" on film sets. Sadly, others are moving out of the old city, because they no longer feel their children can play freely, for instance, while the latest Star Wars is being filmed in its streets—nor can they maintain any semblance of normal life in a place that has become so oversaturated with tourists.

Dubrovnik - part 3

Our Lessons

Dubrovnik's walls may have been near-impenetrable during medieval times, but they are no match for modern weapons: such as the high-angled artillery used against the city in the 1990s! Like Bosnia, after Croatia declared its independence, the Yugoslav Serbian army led a brutal campaign in an effort to stop Croatia from seceding. Serbian war tactics, we are told, were multi-faceted: strategies included attacking not only military positions, but also 'symbolic' targets. Dubrovnik was an unarmed city with tremendous historic importance for the Croats; so in an effort to demoralize them into submission, the city was shelled heavily for 7 months. This, however, proved ultimately to be a huge diplomatic blunder for the Serbs, as it bolstered international sympathy for Croatian independence and prompted United Nations intervention. Today, formerly-shelled buildings can be easily identified by their new, more brightly colored roofs.

Although the war is now 30 years past, there is still a large amount of resentment expressed socially towards Serbia. For instance, we are told that many Croats refuse to venture into Serbian territory, even though the border is just 30 km away. Others discreetly drive to Serbia to do their shopping to buy better-valued Serbian products, then lie to their neighbors about where they obtained these goods to avoid "shaming." Apparently, a Croatian politician recently even tried to accuse his opponent of having "Serbian teeth" (a derogatory insinuation that he went to Serbia to get cheap dental implants).

Dubrovnik - part 4

Our Lessons

Seriously: it would seem there are no rules against leisurely swimming in the beautiful turquoise waters anywhere around the Croatian coastline! As Eric enjoyed traversing the steep rocks all around the Dubrovnik sea walls, he saw several daring souls jumping right off for a swim into very rough waters, with no easy spot to get back out (just climb up the slippery boulder you jumped from, of course!). We even witnessed a 73-year-old man climbing 15 feet up the vertical fortress wall, balancing on a tiny rocky outcropping, and launching himself out past the sidewalk into very shallow waters (a perfectly executed dive, which he says he has been doing since his childhood!).

Zadar

Our Lessons

A quick sunset stop at the historic city of Zadar brought us to some unusual seaside attractions, including an illuminated outdoor 'disco' floor, and the world-famous "Sea Organ." Situated along the ocean, the rise and fall of the waves crashing into a series of hollow steps pushes air through pipes of different lengths beneath them. As the air is released, it creates a unique musical sound. Honestly, it sounds rather creepy, especially at night: the waves are random, and so the sudden, seemingly off-tune notes emanating from the stairs below our feet sounded like something out of a horror movie!

Plitvice National Park - part 1

Our Lessons

"The Land of Falling Lakes,” aka Plitvice Lakes National Park, is an elegantly delicate ecosystem consisting of sixteen self-contained turquoise lakes, each cascading down into the next, like a series of steps. Each lake is held in place against gravity by a stone terrace, which has formed over time due to calcium deposition—similar in concept to the white geothermal 'travertine' terraces of Pamukkale's desert landscape in Turkey, but with an interesting twist:

"Are those like cave stalactites... made of grass?" one tourist next to us asked. Yes, they are! Here, the ground consists of highly-porous 'karst' limestone, which allows rainwater to dissolve and absorb calcium from the stone as it seeps through. This calcified water then enters the lakes, giving them a super-high mineral content. In Croatia's temperate climate, moss and grass grow readily along the edges of lakes—and as the calcified water slowly drips down and gets aerated over the thick moss, the calcium begins to settle and harden! Soon, old layers of moss get covered in so much calcium that they literally turn to stone and die, leaving behind a fresh hard surface for new moss to adhere to! As this process repeats itself, the formation grows in size, resulting in ever-evolving 'petrified moss terraces' (and yes, petrified moss 'stalactites' which extend great lengths down the waterfalls!).

As we walked along Plitvice's beautiful ground-level boardwalks, the crystal-clear lakes and rivers flowed just inches beneath our feet. Peering into the water, we noticed that fallen tree branches have all acquired a bleached, ghostly appearance—an indication that they, too, have become saturated with minerals and are transforming into stone over time. What a unique sight to see!

Of note, this type of porous, plant-based limestone terrace formed at ambient temperatures is known as 'tufa.' The tufa terraces of Plitvice differ from the denser 'thermogenic travertine' terraces seen in Turkey and Yellowstone National Park in the U.S., for instance. The latter occurs when calcium emerging from hot geothermal springs rapidly precipitates once exposed to the outside air and cooler temperatures. Because of this more rapid chemical transformation, geothermal travertine is usually most prominent right near the mouth of the geyser or hot spring from which it emerges.

Plitvice National Park - part 2

Our Lessons

A sad reminder that war knows no boundaries...

As history would have it, Plitvice National Park was the location of the first battle in the Croatian war for independence. There, the Yugoslav Serbian army reportedly used the terrain and the park's office buildings to hunker down and ambush the Croatian police force. The park was damaged—and perhaps worse, landmines were laid. To this day, some of the more remote areas in the park are still suspected to contain undiscovered mines!

Landmines were used extensively during the 1990s Yugoslav Wars by all sides; about 1.5 million were deployed. Today, Croatia is still afflicted by a reported 100 square miles of uncleared minefields.

Opatija

Our Lessons

Continuing our journey west towards Italy, we stopped to admire the star-studded promenade of Opatija. This city was an early tourist destination for the rich during its time under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, due to a strategically-placed railway heading south. Its promenade consists of beautiful old buildings and countless restaurants with delicious food. Spanning along a coastal road lined with ritzy hotels and condos, we strolled along a pathway resembling the Hollywood “Walk of Fame." Instead of movie stars, this walkway features tributes to renowned scholars, such as electrical engineer Nikola Tesla. Because Tesla was born in Croatia but of Serbian descent, both nations continue to quibble over which country’s museums his work should be displayed in. During our travels, it was not uncommon to see statues of Tesla in restaurants and bars in Serbia, as well as Bosnia. But wait: Tesla was a citizen in the United States when he did most of his inventing... So just maybe America should also have claim to him?

Rovinj - part 1

Our Lessons

If Dubrovnik was once Venice's rival as a trade hub, Rovinj just may be Venice's up-and-coming rival as a new tourist hub.

Currently, Rovinj is a quaint town full of charm and colors, seated across the Adriatic Sea from Venice. It began as a single island settlement—larger but perhaps similar to the 117 islands that originally made up Venice. Over time, Rovinj's population grew, so people employed a Venetian-style of construction along Rovinj's perimeter: creating permanent platforms out of wood piles, onto which additional structures could be built over the water. However, after almost a millennium, even this did not provide adequate space. To make the island a more accessible trade city, the canal separating it from the mainland was eventually filled in. Now Rovinj is not an island, but a peninsula—and the strip of land dividing the former island from the mainland overflows with restaurants and cafes, featuring spectacular views of the old hilltop town and its surrounding port.

Rovinj - part 2

Our Lessons

Rovinj’s citizens pride themselves in having a very “authentic” city, that has not been overly commercialized like Venice or Dubrovnik. We tend to agree: from the centuries-old pastel-colored homes in varying states of repair, to the bell tower’s aging staircase (which still consists of rickety and precariously narrow wooden planks!), this place felt much less overtaken by tourism and the modern "culture of safety." For this very reason, it is one of our favorite cities in this part of the world.

Rovinj - part 3

Our Lessons

While the Venetians went through great lengths to steal a saint (more on this in Italy), Rovinj's saint literally washed up on their shores! The story goes that the coffin of St. Euphemia miraculously floated along the sea's currents, finding its way to Rovinj, her final resting place. When she landed on the beach, the combined strength of countless grown men apparently failed to pull her heavy marble coffin up onto the island. Then, in a second miracle, a little boy and his donkey were able to do the job effortlessly. Since then, a statue of Euphemia has stood tall over the steeple of Rovinj's hilltop church, where her remains now lie. The statue physically rotates with the wind—and before the “Weather Channel,” fishermen would look at the direction her statue was facing to determine if it would be safe to go out to sea on a particular day.

Venice - part 1

Our Lessons

First thoughts upon setting foot in Venice: Wait, our hotel is still a 2-hour walk from ​here?? This place is much bigger than expected!

We truly could not believe how massive this so-called "Floating City" actually is! ​With a seemingly endless series of grandiose plazas and lavish bridges extending in ​all directions, it is clear that the riches of the world have been poured into this ​expanding city for many centuries. Every building we passed is historic, but well-​maintained; unique, and ornately decorated. Although most cathedrals and the most ​famous works of art require a fee to enter, we honestly did not feel a strong need to ​see them during our brief three-night stay. Since literally everything is interesting ​here, our eyes did not cease to be amazed while simply wandering from one block to ​the next.

Getting lost in these narrow alleys with concrete arches and colorful houses; sipping ​coffee along the canals; enjoying an ever-popular Aperol or Campari-based "Spritz" ​(Prosecco mixed with orange or red bitters); perusing through the countless high-end ​shops and antique dealers: these are just a few of the many unforgettable sights and ​experiences we had in Venice. The Italian restaurant and shop owners were so ​welcoming and animated—certainly for us, the stereotype was true that Italians ​speak with their hand gestures as much as their booming vocal cords!

Venice - part 2

Our Lessons

As one walks through these endless streets and bridges, Venice’s history is on full display: In the Plaza of San Marco, we enjoyed Italian High Tea in a royally-decorated, centuries-old coffee shop. We marveled at the colored glass sculptures and fine leather products for sale at every street corner. There is a plethora of Venetian mask and carnival costume stores—and observing my purple dress, one kind shop owner insisted on donning me with a full purple-velvet cape and matching hat. She then coaxed me to walk outside to a nearby bridge to announce my royal arrival (a mutually-beneficial gesture that attracted other customers to her store)!

Venice - part 3

Our Lessons

The classic vintage gondola boats are indeed still a ubiquitous and revered symbol of Venetian culture. Today, an increasing number of motorboats are also seen squeezing through every narrow canal. Boats are used for everything, since cars are still not allowed (we were particularly fascinated to see ambulance boats!). Unfortunately, we were told that the increase in motorized boats has led to frequent large waves splashing up onto houses and buildings built along the canals. This is causing damage to the foundations of many buildings, which were constructed in an era of rowboats.

Venice - part 4

Our Lessons

How and why was this crazy place built, we asked? We learned that Venice was created for the same reason as the Uros floating villages we visited in Peru: for protection. Over a millennium ago, most major fighting forces operated on land, and so it was a practical choice to build a city surrounded by a “mega-moat.” Venice started as extensions of tiny islands: Wood piles were hammered directly into the seabed—so close together that they formed platforms onto which homes, plazas, and an entire city were built! Like the nearby Plitvice in Croatia, the mineral content of the Venetian Lagoon actually hardened these wooden stilts over time, turning them into a permanent stone-like foundation that still exists today! Because they were situated on water, Venetians quickly became master ship-builders. Soon, the Venetian empire had one of the most formidable navies in the Mediterranean and surrounding seas. Because they were willing to trade with everyone regardless of culture or creed, Venice was a center of trade for centuries. As a result, money constantly flowed into this uber-wealthy city, leading to its incredibly concentrated medley of art, and its magnificent architecture spanning from the Classical to Baroque/Renaissance periods.

Venice - part 5

Our Lessons

"If you ask me, it's a damned tragedy that we praise the 'Trojan Horse' story, while sleeping on the unrivaled tactical brilliance that is the 'Venetian Ham' heist!" ~Gregory Kerr, historian

Every great empire needs to have physical possession of their mascot. And so by the 9th century, Venetians had a problem: they had undeniably constructed a great empire, complete with the great Basilica of Saint Mark. However, to convincingly claim Mark as their patron, the Venetians needed the “material remains” of Mark himself. Unfortunately at the time, St. Mark’s body was held under lock-and-key in Islamic-controlled Constantinople. The solution: in one of the most epic robberies in ancient history, Venetian merchants snuck into Constantinople, snatched St. Mark's body, and hid him in a crate of pork. Because Muslim culture considers pork to be ‘unclean,’ customs and border patrol did not thoroughly search the crate—allowing the body to sneak past security, and onto the Venetians' ship! St. Mark's remains made it safely to Venice, where they rest to this day. Consequently, St. Mark has been idolized all along the Mediterranean coast, in the many cities that the Venetian empire once had control over.

Venice - part 6

Our Lessons

It is hard to travel the world and not feel a sense of urgency for addressing the detrimental impact we humans are having on our climate and environment. Venice’s history of flooding is well-known to the world, and it is indeed getting worse. Statistically-proven sea-level rise of 1 mm/year adds up when it comes to centuries-old homes constructed in the middle of water—especially when worsening storm swells are now blowing higher tides inland at increasing frequencies. A project to protect Venice from extreme high-tide events was activated for the first time in 2020. Nicknamed “Mose,” this project has become infamous for mechanical complications and financial corruption. It has taken decades to complete, and one tour guide noted the debacle has cost over €5 billion so far (up from €1.3 billion initially predicted). The Mose system consists of huge mechanical walls that sit on the sea floor. The walls get pulled upright along a hinge when floods are predicted. Unfortunately, flood events have still occurred, because the system needs to be activated in time, and sea-level rise is unpredictable. Activating the flood walls prevents cargo and passenger ships from entering/exiting the estuary surrounding Venice, so each time it is deployed there are negative economic consequences. At the time of our visit, engineers were continuing to encounter design issues: for example, when the walls are raised, storms push sand underneath them, which prevents the walls from being laid as flat as originally intended.

Venice - part 7

Our Lessons

Unfortunately for Venice, not only are sea the levels rising: Venice itself really is sinking, albeit gradually. There has been a slow shifting of the lagoon’s deep clay bedrock—the seabed into which Venice’s long wood piles were mounted during the city's construction centuries ago. More recent attempts to extract fresh groundwater have been halted, after it was discovered that Venice began sinking faster as a result: an average of 15 cm (6 in) over the past century! This is enough to impair the structural stability of some buildings, which is nearly impossible to reverse because of the delicate way their foundations were built.

Venice - part 8

Our Lessons

Witnessing the grandeur, size and revenue generated by tourism in Venice firsthand, we suspect that a lot more money will be poured into saving it over the coming century. Will this be enough? One thing is for certain: this type of funding and political will is simply not available to save other coastal cities. Indeed, "planned relocations" of entire at-risk populations are already being implemented in some parts of the world. “Low-lying Jakarta, for example, home to around 11 million people, is in such dire straits that it is being replaced as the capital city of Indonesia by Nusantara, a city not yet even built.” (BBC 2022). As the NOAA bleakly frames it: "If we are able to significantly reduce greenhouse gas emissions, U.S. sea level in 2100 is projected to be around 0.6 meters (2 feet)... but on a pathway with high greenhouse gas emissions and rapid ice sheet collapse, models project that average sea level rise for the contiguous United States could be 2.2 meters (7.2 feet) by 2100." We’d definitely vote for the first option! We wonder how much even our beloved city of New York can take, before it becomes too expensive to maintain against worsening and more frequent storm damage.

Santorini - part 1

Our Lessons

Is it possible to have a quality experience in the most-idolized Greek island of Santorini... "on a budget"? To our surprise, yes! Cue Mission-Impossible music: Start with a flight search engine that includes budget airlines. List Santorini as your starting point, and 'reverse-search' to find the cheapest connecting city. You will find that many dirt-cheap flights are available, especially to major cities in Europe. Amongst these, pick the cheapest city to fly to from your home country, enjoy a few days there, then hop on your budget flight to Santorini (these flights are usually the same price in either direction)! For us, RyanAir charged just $10 for a flight to Santorini from Venice.

Pro tip: watch out for those heavy additional fees for carry-on bags! Wear layers, stuff multiple jacket pockets to the brim… or better yet, remove the stuffing from a zippable neck pillow and fill it with clothes! As for hotels: everyone dreams of those picture-perfect cliff views of Oia, Santorini's farthest town; but there are tons of cafe balconies and free footpaths all over Oia that offer same view. So we took advantage of these public spaces, and booked a hotel just one block away—without a view but, at a fraction of the cost ($70/night with free breakfast). Oia is an expensive private taxi ride from Santorini’s airport, but there’s an efficient hourly bus that can be used for 1.60 Euro per passenger at the time of this publication. Voila - enjoy this 'bucket-list destination' for just a few hundred dollars.

Santorini - part 2

Our Lessons

As we were told by Santorini's very-friendly locals, visiting here in the tourism low-season is the best time to go. In October, we were able to move about Oia’s narrow streets without being swarmed by fellow visitors, and the water was still warm enough to swim when it was sunny. Like Croatia, the water here is mind-bogglingly clear—creating a picturesque cliffside backdrop, where one can choose between sunbathing on the red and black volcanic rocks… or diving in and swimming to Church: Oddly enough, the Chapel of Saint Nicholas sits on a small island about 100 feet off the coast of Oia. Eric was accompanied by a family of ducks on his leisurely swim over. In the calm waters, the ducks maneuvered with impressive speed as they chased after schools of fish which shimmered in the sun's rays.

Santorini - part 3

Our Lessons

Traditional "Greek" coffee is prepared using a similar method as other Mediterranean coffees we have tried. Fine coffee grounds are poured directly into a cup of water, which is then boiled, leading to a super-concentrated beverage that can be drunk hot or cold. A new favorite for us, however, was a style of iced coffee that gets presented with two distinct layers: a classic strong layer of coffee below, with the second half of the glass filled with a deliciously sweet mocha-flavored froth.

Santorini - part 4

Our Lessons

Could Santorini be the site of Plato's 'lost' civilization of Atlantis, which was consumed by the ocean after its people fell out of favor with the Greek gods? Although the philosopher's narrative is now thought to have been merely an allegory for the hubris of nations, this has not stopped travel agencies from pointing out that Santorini's breathtaking physical topography may have fit the description of Atlantis.

The Santorini of today is a C-shaped "caldera": an island rim with sharp cliffs, remnants of an enormous volcano that blew its top and swallowed itself whole during a cataclysmic eruption around 1500 BC. At its center, surrounded by water, the remains of a smaller volcanically active island continues to smolder.

Volcanic activity certainly hasn't deterred civilizations from utilizing Santorini’s strategically situated cove. Santorini became a frequent rest stop for merchants on their way from North Africa to Russia, due to its ideal location right between the massive port cities of Alexandria and Istanbul. It remained a booming sea town until the invention of the steam engine, which began allowing ships to sail farther without making pit stops. Due to lack of business, Santorini's population was in decline by 1956, at which point a massive earthquake devastated its infrastructure and buildings—many of which had been precariously constructed right into the cliffsides. It was not until the 197 that Santorini's small remaining population experienced a dramatic revival. Suddenly, thanks to the affordability of modern transportation, tourists began pouring in, enamored with the land's striking beauty.

Santorini - part 5

Our Lessons

White- and blue-painted buildings: curving, flowing, interconnecting with the cavernous cliffs themselves, as far as the eye can see! Was this all done to attract tourists, we asked? In fact, no, at least not originally. For a long time, cave homes on Santorini were used as a convenient place for people needing to store goods and livestock in a relatively hidden, protected area, away from the scorching sun and marauding pirates. However, the ash-colored volcanic rock still absorbed excessive heat. Over time, a few people independently decided to color their walls white, which helped to reflect the sun's rays. Then, there came two key government mandates:

First, during the cholera epidemic of the 1930s, citizens were ordered to "whitewash" their homes with lime a few times per year, as this was thought at the time to have sterilizing properties (disclaimer: does not treat COVID!).

Second, in the 1960s when Greece was ruled by a dictatorship, citizens were again mandated to paint their homes: this time, a combination of white and blue, as a symbol of "solidarity" as a nation under one flag.

Despite questionable origins, this color scheme is now ubiquitous throughout the Greek islands, and it is partially responsible for Santorini's tremendous success as an "exotic" tourist destination today. Some of Santorini's original cave homes and its windmills still stand; however, the majority were destroyed and rebuilt following the 1956 earthquake.

One thing that has changed dramatically is the sheer concentration of these structures, which has also grown exponentially to match tourism demands. We are told that the original cave homes were rarely built "one on top of the other" as can be seen today; so, yes, much of this remodeling was done recently in the name of tourism, but these structures do reflect a rich, centuries-old tradition that has evolved over time.

Valletta - part 1

Our Lessons

Although it is a relatively small island, throughout history, nation of Malta has been a crucial intersection for many of the world's cultures, empires, and conflicts. It was the nexus of the middle-ages power struggle between European Christianity and the Islamic Ottoman empire; it was occupied by Napoleon; then subsequently retaken by the British; it resisted siege by the Axis forces and became a launching point for the Allies' Mediterranean front during World War II. Indeed, Malta’s central location is a key reason it has served as a "turning point" in so many wars... but perhaps equally important, its people have proven themselves to be notoriously tough, severely draining resources from just about every military power that has ever tried to conquer them.

Valletta - part 2

Our Lessons

Malta's original "tough-as-nails" civilization dates back 5,000 years ago (we learned that some of the oldest-standing structures made by humans can be found on this island). Flashing forward to just 500 years ago, the island nation's most infamous "warrior" class was establishing themselves: the chivalrous Hospitalist Order of the Knights of St. John. These were not your ordinary knights: they were certainly expert fighters, but they were also Christian monks, and some of the world's most skilled doctors... all at the same time! They combined their medical intellect with some of the most advanced engineering techniques of their era: Malta's capital Valletta was known to be one of the cleanest medieval cities, because the Knights of St. John built it using a modern grid scheme, with aqueducts and effective sewage drainage systems. Malta was renowned for its hospital, which by that period's standards had great surgical outcomes, due to their focus on sanitation and quality improvement. For instance, the Knights had learned from experience to implement techniques such as handwashing as early as the 1600s—a practice which was not adapted in most of Western Europe until the 1800s!

Perhaps the Knights' focus on ingenuity and education makes it a bit less surprising that the Ottoman Empire's massive invasion to conquer Malta failed in the year 1565. Despite being outnumbered 10-to-1 against 50,000 Ottoman soldiers, an estimated 5000 Knights successfully held their ground and repelled the enemy. This failed "Siege of Malta" became celebrated all over Western Christendom as a pinnacle military victory in the name of Catholicism. Western empires subsequently showered the Knights of St. John with riches and supplies to further fortify their city... leading to the absolutely breathtaking architectural marvel that is modern-day Valletta. (of note: the longer story is that the Knights actually provoked the Ottomans by repeatedly attacking their shipping lanes across the Mediterranean... but as always, history is written by the victor!)

Valletta - part 3

Our Lessons

Valletta's architecture is so stunning throughout, that it is the only national capital in which the entire city is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its golden-yellow limestone buildings and massive fortress walls glisten in the sun. Almost every building has a brilliantly-colored wooden balcony, a stone statue, or other beautiful architectural features (in fact, we were told it was at one point an official law that every street corner must have some form of ornamentation). Baroque architecture is on full display inside and out (if "Baroque" can be simplified as "build it big and decorate every piece of it," the beautiful Church of St. Dominic was a particularly accurate representation for us!).

The famously impenetrable city walls built by the Knights of Malta are the highest we have seen. The elevator descending to the ferry terminal at sea level descends an impressive 19 stories. To us, these walls seemed oddly familiar. We realized later that they have been frequently featured in Hollywood blockbusters, as depictions of various “great” walls of ancient world. Examples include Troy, Gladiator, and World War Z (in the latter, Malta was used to depict the Western Wall of Jerusalem that the zombies eventually overran).

Valletta - part 4

Our Lessons

Stepping into Valletta gives us a strange feeling of ‘old’ and ‘new’ at the same time. While just about every building retains its original limestone structure from centuries past, all of the modern amenities we could expect from a city are also there—including electronics stores, and of course McDonalds. The ornately-decorated treasury building of the Knights of Malta is now a cafe that serves delicious pastizzi (a flakey, savory pastry, filled with ricotta or curried peas) and brilliant affogatos (coffee with ice cream scooped on top). Strings of lights, which appear permanently affixed, span the entire length of some of the popular avenues, adding to the city's striking evening ambiance. Interestingly, one popular street is considered the "red-light" district. Although we are told prostitution no longer occurs here, every night the street is lit up by beautiful strings of red: illuminating a plethora of outdoor restaurants flanked by narrow doorways, which lead to countless basement-level bars, shops and even a haunted house (which we thoroughly enjoyed on Halloween). Just about all these lower floors are "cave"-like, with beautiful arched limestone ceilings and support beams.

Valletta - part 5

Our Lessons

Valletta strikes us as a lively city with a modern culture, populated by people from all corners of the world. We were impressed to find businesses run by Caucasians, Asians, Africans, and many distinct ethnicities. Everyone was friendly, and people were more than happy to sit down and share their stories with us. One restaurant worker from Ethiopia explained that he immigrated illegally a decade ago, but has since successfully applied for and obtained legal Maltese documentation. He has two full-time jobs, and despite the tiring hours he seems proud that he is working hard towards a better life for himself. Immigration appears to be a hot topic during our visit: On our Saturday morning tour, a crowd of people demonstrating in support of migrant workers marched past us. However, our tour guide stated that Malta is now becoming overpopulated—an unfortunate downside to being known as a high-quality destination for foreigners.

Valletta - part 6

Our Lessons

Below the Valletta streets exist countless subterranean passages, which date back to the times of the legendary Knights of Malta. In an unforgettable experience, one restaurant owner happily directed us to the underground corridor that connects his basement to nearby ones. Pushing aside a large potted plant in his underground dining room revealed a musty, wet tunnel that twisted and turned, before ending at a staircase leading to a building on the far end of the street. The owner tells us this tunnel was built in the 1500s, along with the original limestone walls of his dining room. He also recalls that his family was once having a loud celebration in this room—when a party-crashing neighbor emerged from the tunnel! The neighbor admitted he followed the music down the corridors, and wished to join the festivities.

Valletta - part 7

Our Lessons

As we explored Malta's hilly streets, peering into storefronts along the way, we happened upon a cavernous restaurant with a beautiful sparkling chandelier hanging from its arched ceiling. It was closed, but when the owner saw us peeking through her window, she happily reopened for the two curious tourists! Not only did she offer us her delicious food, but she also introduced us to her 90-year-old mother, who shared with us the family's fascinating history here. Just seven years old at the start of World War II, this eloquent woman recollected vivid images of running to bomb shelters during the prolonged Axis siege of Malta, which consisted of over 3,000 German airstrikes. She recounted the starving conditions Malta's defenders faced; the deficit of food rations; how she and other children tried to hunt down missed parcels of airdropped corned beef. She smiled as she remembered how her parents cooked for the Allied soldiers in the very place we sat now. She delighted in sharing with us these stories, to help us understand how proud she was of her people for persevering despite all odds (in fact, many historians predict Hitler would have won the war if he had successfully taken Malta).

Marrakech- part 1

Our Lessons

With only one (late-night) flight available, our tour of Morocco began with an honestly frightening midnight trek, through the dark alleys of the completely closed Medina of Marrakech. This was an unexpected development: perhaps in order to avoid losing a customer, the man who arranged our non-English-speaking taxi driver failed to mention that the old market streets leading up to our “riad” homestay were closed to late-night traffic. After parking unexpectedly along a poorly-lit street, we waited while our driver made repeated phone calls, presumably attempting to contact our homestay owner. After a while, another man who did not speak English approached and spoke with our driver, who gestured that we needed to follow him. Nervous but deciding there was no better alternative, we began a 20-minute walk through empty streets, past bolted-shut storefronts and an occasional staring face peering out from the many dark alleys. At one point the man leading us looked inquisitively at the pink “lipstick” tubes we were each clutching in our hands: discreet pepper spray, which we have successfully carried past airport security every time. This is one item we always keep with us while traveling but have never needed; and luckily, despite the language barrier and ominous feel of the situation, we were escorted safely to our correct location (no self-defense required). Certainly this was a good reminder that most people are genuine and helpful, but that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to avoiding risky situations.

Marrakech - part 2

Our Lessons

Marrakech is one of Morocco's oldest cities, and it has remained "old". It has existed for 1,000 years and was the nexus of the first empire of the formerly-nomadic Berber people. A historical side note: the Berbers were the only people from Africa to ever successfully launch an invasion of Western Europe—this invasion was one of defense, in order to protect their fellow Islamic people from the Christian armies, who were advancing down the Spanish peninsula. The Berbers also had a fascinating custom of tattooing their family names vertically down the centers of their faces. This practice is mostly preserved in the elder generations now. It was certainly intriguing to see this feature on some of the street vendors we encountered in the markets.

It was fascinating to visit a Berber family, who showed us their traditional skill of weaving handmade carpets. I also had the opportunity to try on a Berber wedding blanket, known as a handira. Beautifully embroidered with tiny mirrored sequins, the blanket is supposed to bring luck and prosperity, and to ward off evil spirits for the new bride and groom.

Marrakech - part 3

Our Lessons

Marrakech has a large airport and cheap flights, as it is popular with tourists—yet, we were surprised that its old market, or “Medina,” seems to be the "center" of commerce for locals. This contrasts with many other cities, which maintain their "old town" mostly as a center for tourism. We encountered almost no modern buildings, and no high rises in sight, except for the single towering minaret of the Kutubiyya Mosque. This has led some to comment that old Marrakech "stands still in time." Outdoor vendors line every street, selling mostly traditional trinkets, decorative crafts, spices and dyes, all exuding color and fragrance. If we closed our eyes, we could imagine this exact same scene having existed hundreds of years ago. Behind the storefronts are mostly crumbling, poorly maintained building facades; however, the market's makeshift stalls completely cover up the walls and ceilings of these old buildings anyway, so it seems there is less motivation to invest in restoration.

Certainly, for what Marrakech lacks in infrastructure, it makes up for with the beauty in its people and culture! This just may be the most sprawling market we have ever seen, and it has some very interesting products: including complex wooden jewelry boxes with concealed locks, and shops lined from floor-to-ceiling with yarn dyed every color of the rainbow. Most street vendors have learned to be very assertive here. They are eager to grab your attention, to show you how their product is made, or to ‘quiz’ you about something they are selling ("Can you guess what this mineral is?" "Do you know how to open this?"). This was really quite fun at first, and we learned a lot!

We had to stay mindful that most people living and working in the Medina are quite poor, and in Moroccan culture, if you are using someone's time, it is customary to leave a small tip. We also quickly learned to be careful about unconventional ways to make a sale: for instance, one woman started drawing a henna tattoo on my arm as I was walking by. She moved so quickly that I was not able to pull my arm away in time (that brown smudge took a week to fade).

Atlas Mountains - part 1

Our Lessons

An epic adventure across the famed High Atlas mountains, through the Sahara desert, back by way of the Rif mountain range to the north gave us a beautiful panoramic ​of Morocco’s changing landscapes. We briefly bundled up with coats and sweaters as we crossed the high-altitude passage at “Toubkal,” the tallest peak in Morocco… ​then quickly removed our layers again as we descended to ground level. South of the High Atlas mountains, the scenery itself was fascinating: along the desert highway, ​we encountered countless red dirt-colored buildings, adorned with step-shaped facades and exclusively green-painted doors. Newer buildings are painted to match the ​color of older mud-brick structures, many of which appear to still be in use today. In between, the ruins of even-older buildings remain: centuries-old fortified “kasbahs” ​(this route is in fact named "Road of 1,000 kasbahs"). A "kasbah" is a collection homes fortified behind tall walls, which serve to protect valuables, and as trading ​outposts and sometimes homestays for passing nomads.

One local we spoke with referred to this as the "forgotten" part of Morocco; and we wonder how poor the standard of living is here. From the road, many occupied ​buildings seemed rather old and crumbling. As night fell, we saw a large number of people walking, or simply leaning against the buildings’ walls to relax. There are no ​sidewalks here; everyone is right up next to the highway—leading us to speculate just how much of a ‘luxury’ a commodity such as a car or air conditioning must be. ​Even along less-traveled roads, there are many vendors seated outside bare-bones shacks, trying to make ends meet selling any variety of goods—from freshly-squeezed ​juice, to fossilized rocks, to peanuts for tourists to feed the monkeys who live in the more mountainous regions.

Atlas Mountains - part 2

Our Lessons

We observed that there are a lot of hitchhikers in this part of Morocco! One reason for this: school is free; however, textbooks and public buses are not. This results in many children walking long distances to school. A Moroccan physician we met commented that despite having masters degrees, many people still have difficulties finding jobs. Unemployment is high here, and it has been amplified by the pandemic. Morocco, we learned, had one of the longest lockdowns in Africa, lasting over three months. Although swift quarantine and border restrictions are attributed to having staved off the early part of the pandemic, it resulted in country’s first recession since 1995. Our friend commented that the majority of Moroccans have a very low income, despite the fact that the country itself is quite rich in resources—for example, 75% of the world's Phosphorus reserves are here—providing us modern humans the necessary supply of plant fertilizer to sustain life! We are told that Morocco's GDP has improved in the last decade or so... but, government corruption siphons away much of the money that should be getting invested in infrastructure and its people. Ironically, we are told that tourists are better cared for and more protected than Morocco's citizens, since tourists are recognized as a vital part of the economy. For local Moroccans, encounters with police can be intimidating; it is even said that police acting in secret have also been known to make Moroccans "disappear" for expressing dissenting opinions.

The fact that many people are desperate to make ends meet may explain some atypical interactions we experienced here. For example, in the Marrakech market, we were confronted by a few young men who tried to insist that we give a larger tip, after they had coerced us to come see how their fabrics were being dyed (we stood firm on the amount we had already given, and were merely asked to leave). On another occasion, we heard a loud thumping on our tour van's locked trunk—to find that a couple of teenagers were forcibly trying to open it at a red light in an attempt to steal our bags! We were informed that petty-theft incidents such as this are happening more often, but larger crimes such as physically harming tourists do not happen. We asked our local friend why people don't immigrate to another place if the situation is so bad here. His answer: many want to, and would if they could; but a poor Moroccan without connections would be declined immigration approval for most "developed" places in Europe.

Aït Benhaddou - part 1

Our Lessons

Aït Benhaddou: the famed desert kasbah that has been glamorized by renowned movies such as Gladiator. It had a less 'authentic' feel than some of the abandoned kasbahs that we were able to explore during this trip; but it undoubtedly deserves credit for being the biggest, and most ‘modern’ kasbah we came across. Like all kasbahs bordering the Sahara Desert region of Morocco, Aït Benhaddou was constructed of mud bricks. These outposts were made to last a few generations only, if tended to with regular maintenance. That means most of Morocco's unmaintained kasbahs today are crumbling from years of exposure to the elements—and indeed, we have walked along mounds of dirt that were the former walls of these abandoned fortresses. The photos on this page pay tribute to the "forgotten" kasbahs, now faded away in the sands of time.

Aït Benhaddou - part 1

Our Lessons

Unlike the surrounding unkept kasbahs, Aït Benhaddou still stands strong, because it was hand-picked by the film industry. It has been showered with 'TLC' ever since its main gate was reconstructed for Lawrence of Arabia. Over time, more and more pieces got rebuilt by each production company that wished to film there, to the point that the entire front half now looks quite new! Now Aït Benhaddou is a UNESCO heritage site. The only disappointment about this visit for us: the optional paid tour (which our driver strongly encouraged us to take) felt extremely rushed, with no history or explanation presented. Never ones to miss an opportunity to explore on our own, we quietly “escaped” from our tour halfway through. Traversing these winding alleys alone was a much more rewarding experience!

Sahara Desert - part 1

Our Lessons

An hour-long camel ride to our Sahara Desert campsite was one of the most peaceful experiences I had in Morocco. There's something truly special about being surrounded by an endless sea of golden sand dunes at sunset, with no sound other than the rhythmic footsteps of the gentle animal beneath you. Unfortunately, Eric noted a slightly different experience, as highlighted by his intermittent comments, such as: "my thighs are chafing"; "wearing shorts was a really bad idea"; "my legs can't stay stretched like this"; and "oh God I now have a huge appreciation for how tough the desert nomads must have been!"

To our delight, our Sahara camping experience turned out to be more like "glamping," reminiscent of our Wadi Rum Desert accommodations in Jordan, featuring private tents equipped with their own attached bathrooms, toilets and showers. After a lively dance party around the fire to the beats of traditional Moroccan drums, we wandered off into the moonless night, until several large dunes had completely obstructed any visible light coming from the campsite. We laid our heads down on the cool, soft dunes alongside our new friends. This was the first time we could so clearly see the Milky Way with our naked eyes! Such a beautiful time to share personal stories with one another. We watched over a dozen shooting stars go by, and made wishes together—and indeed, a year later our good travel friend reached out to inform us that my wish for him had come true, as he joyously announced that finally met "the one," and they are now happily married. Meanwhile, our friend had also wished upon a shooting star for us, that quarantine restrictions would be lifted in time for our future journey to Cuba. This would turn out to be another wish come true!

Sahara Desert - part 2

Our Lessons

Noticeably, as with all included meals on this desert tour, our dinner was just a bit too small to fully satisfy: only 3 medium-sized tagine pots were prepared for 17 tourists. We wonder what is considered a "normal" quantity of food in Morocco, as we had similar experiences on a couple of other occasions. For instance, one restaurant server assumed we would be sharing just a single order; but when we received the small plate, the meal seemed more suitable for one person. At another moment, a local commented to us that a single chicken can last him and his wife an entire week!

Once again, we felt like negotiators when it came to leaving the desert camp, as the driver incorrectly tried to convince us that our transport back to the tour bus was not included in the prepaid tour price (it was). Adapting the practice of standing firm and calmly justifying our argument was an unfortunate necessity when traveling on a budget to many lower-income countries... and in our limited personal experience, this did seem to happen more often in Morocco. Overall, a relatively small nuisance for this priceless immersion into such a fascinating, beautiful and unique culture.

Fez - part 1

Our Lessons

Spending a few days in Morocco's oldest city of Fez was a very memorable experience. Honestly, seeing social media photos of the famous Medina of Fez was somewhat deceiving: Fez is not very pretty throughout. Though this city may have a more modern-appearing "downtown” compared to Marrakech, our overall impression of Morocco is that it's still a “developing” place. In a familiar scene, Fez consists of very old buildings, many seeming desperately in need of repairs and a power-washing… from the outside. On the other hand, stepping into one of Fez's old palatial riads instantly transforms the scene into an immaculately preserved oasis of color and geometric symmetry.

In our experience, Fez just might be the best city to stay in a traditional riad. In past times, “riad” was a wealthy home, with several rooms surrounding a courtyard. There is no shortage of these luxurious riads, which have now been converted to homestays for tourists. A high-quality riad in Fez seemed significantly cheaper than in Marrakech; for instance, for under $40/day we stayed in the beautifully restored “Riad Naila.” Here, our room came adorned with a breathtakingly intricate plaster ceiling and traditional glass chandelier, complete with a marble bathroom and gold sink. Incidentally, this riad is right next to the well-known “Maison Bleue Riad” (where chef Gordon Ramsay and Michelle Obama stayed). We had a delicious dinner there one night, and oddly, the restaurant was 100% empty except for us! Sadly, Morocco was still struggling to get its tourism industry back on track in November 2021, despite reportedly very good vaccine compliance (70% we were told). Our Maison Bleue waiter happily arranged for us to get a free tour of the riad the next morning—which single-handedly spoiled our standards for any house-hunting we will do in the future! This place was simply incredible, with every corner pristinely decorated with patterned tile, molded plaster and chandeliers.

Fez - part 2

Our Lessons

It may be accurate to say that Morocco is entering a "confused" state of social development. For instance, our riad caretaker shared with us that his wife-to-be wanted to take a "break" to spend time in Dubai before committing to marry him—because, according to her, “this is sometimes done in Western cultures.” He observes her constantly following the lavish lifestyles of Western influencers on social media. At the same time, a transgender traveler staying at our riad told us the heartbreaking story of how he has been persistently harassed and made fun of by groups of men as he walked the streets of the Medina. We are told that the younger generation's access to social media has allowed anyone to be a "reporter"—leading to a gradual increase in social tolerance and openness to ideas, but also a lack of respect for cultural traditions, scientists and teachers.

Journeying to the old tanneries of Fez was truly an eye-opening and nose-pinching experience. Tannery jobs pay as little as a few dollars per day for beginners—and with desperate situations come desperate actions. Expect to be persistently pushed to get a "guide" or be told "come with me; this way is better" as you look for the best viewpoint of the tanneries (in reality, this is free). Like any other travelers, we of course felt uncomfortable at times by this; but remembered it is not a new or scary thing; it is a sad reality in a lot of developing parts of the world where jobs are scarce and minimum wages are insufficient. Our riad host emphasized that many people "work to survive," and that even after a 15-hour day, they may have earned only enough to scrape by, with no savings.

Fez - part 3

Our Lessons

Firmly but respectfully we repeatedly declined offers to follow random locals, who were pushing to be unofficial guides for us to earn money. Exploring the tanneries on our own, we eventually ran into some cheerful leather workers who welcomed us into their tiny, foul-smelling workspace. We walked along the limestone tubs, which are used to soak and loosen the animal hair from the hides. We then entered an even smaller, dustier upper-floor space, covered with dried skins and piles of loose hair. Here, the workers happily showed us the process of cleaning and removing the hair from the pre-soaked hides, with nothing more than a sharp knife and a rotating stick. After leaving a tip for their time, we left this awfully dirty work environment. As it turned out, we had just witnessed the cleaner part of the operation, and we were horrified to see with our own eyes the next step in the leather-making process...

We found our way to a terraced cafe, finally getting a birds-eye view of what all tourists come to the Fez tanneries to see: In the giant outdoor courtyard below, we observed men standing thigh-deep in giant colored vats of pigeon guano. The uric acid from the guano, literally collected from the rooftops of Fez, is used to soften the hides after they have been dehaired. Here, men work for hours on a single batch of hides, stomping and mixing them constantly until they become soft leather. Kind of like smashing grapes for wine… except… it's poop.

We can't fathom these working conditions, and we can only imagine that if the worker has any type of cuts or injuries to the skin, it could lead to major infections. The smell is beyond overwhelming—the cafe owner offered us mint leaves to mask the smell, but for me it did not help. Eric declined the mint completely, as he did not wish to start mentally associating the scent of his mint toothpaste with the smell of pigeon poop!

We ask ourselves why such a horrendous, unsanitary practice such as this still exists; but we realize that this is just one example of countless terrible work conditions that many people continue to endure all across this planet. Until we reach a point in which return-on-investment is higher when sanitary/mechanized production methods are used, dreadful (but cheap) manual labor will continue to exist. Perhaps the only exception could be if governments financially incentivize better work conditions; however, this requires leaders who are willing and able to initially decrease profits for the well-being of their people.

One thing’s for sure: the next time we encounter hardship in our lives, we will reflect on this experience and thank our lucky stars.

Chefchaouen - part 1

Our Lessons

Chefchaouen is a picturesque town built along the hillsides of the Rif mountains, with a very unique characteristic: it is painted almost entirely blue! The origins of this practice are still debated. The most commonly accepted explanation is that Jewish refugees from World War II began the trend, because the color blue was religiously symbolic for them. Our experience walking through these eye-catching streets felt far more tranquil than in Marrakech or Fez (these streets were also noticeably cleaner).

Chefchaouen - part 2

Our Lessons

One thing is for sure: the people of Chefchaouen have definitely embraced our changing era of advertising and marketing. Enterprising locals have tried to maximize the decor in their private alleyways to entice visitors, and then charge a fee to take photos in their private space. Paying $0.10-$0.50 per person allows you free access to take as many shots as you'd like in most of these picturesque corners, and honestly it felt worthwhile to us to capture a few scenes. At times, however, encounters with individuals taking a more active approach to solicitation felt a bit odd: as we walked along, a few people sitting at street corners called to us—but instead of asking for money, they asked us to take pictures in front of their shops, and to tag and like them on social media. Almost eerily reminiscent of the dystopian futures depicted in the Black Mirror series, in which one's social validation is worth more than money! Regardless, Chefchaouen's citizens' collective efforts seem to be working: due to its fame, this city appears to be financially better off that the others we have seen in Morocco... at least for now, until other communities come up with an even more creative attractions...

Casablanca - part 1

Our Lessons

Casablanca is the center of business and finance of Morocco. Navigating around this city was much more relaxing compared to others; a great end to our journey across this country. Far from the gritty impressions given off in John Wick, or the small-town nostalgia depicted in Humprey Beaugart's classic film, the real Casablanca of today mostly consists of organized streets and modern Western-style architecture.

In Casablanca, there is a more obvious transition to current Western culture, including fashion. Like us, millennials here enjoy going to bars, socially dating, and expressing affection publicly (except for kissing, which is still taboo). As such, we found fewer staring eyes here from locals, and repeatedly commented to each other that this city may be a better introductory destination to Morocco for new tourists seeking to avoid a "culture shock." Interestingly, our Casablanca tour guide expressed that Morocco as a whole is by far the "least conservative" Islamic country, due to its closer proximity and more frequent interactions with Europe. For instance, French is an official language here, often appearing on street signs, dating back to the French occupation of this part of Morocco (Arabic and Berber are two other official languages of Casablanca).

As it is a port city, we enjoyed some incredibly fresh seafood at the Central Marketplace, which we purchased in an unusual manner: after selecting one of many restaurants on the adjacent street, the chef personally took us to the market and waited while we picked out our fish and giant prawns, straight off the iced display shelves. After bargaining and paying for our food with the friendly market vendor, the chef guided us back to her restaurant and cooked it to order, for a small extra fee (the giant prawns were so good we went back for a second order!). This excellent service was the icing on the cake!

Casablanca - part 2

Our Lessons

Unfortunately, housing and infrastructure are run down in many areas of Casablanca; but even there, you can see colorful street art and graffiti brightening up the narrow corridors. As we walked around, we were repeatedly asked where we come from, followed by a friendly smile and "welcome." We were told that residents of older neighborhoods here are known to still keep their front doors opened, maintaining a sense of community that they feel is lost in the “younger” generation.

Our local guide introduced us to some very interesting flavors, including “spiced coffee with ginger,” which is apparently only sold on the street. It reminded us a bit of Indian chai tea (one cup: just 10 US cents!). In one of Casablanca’s smaller medinas, our taste buds delighted as we savored what was definitely our favorite pastilla (chicken meat pie, served with powdered sugar and cinnamon!). We further appreciated the sight, smell, and gentle sizzling sounds of personal-sized tagine pots, cooking on open flames right in the street (in fact, it is difficult to find tagine cooked in this traditional way in touristy locations!).

Casablanca - part 3

Our Lessons

Stepping up to the incredibly grandiose Hussein II Mosque can be described as overwhelming: it is the 3rd-largest mosque in the world, and it owns the record for the world's tallest minaret (210 meters: about as tall as our 70-story apartment building in Jersey City!). The elaborate mosaic work throughout is jaw-droppingly detailed. Walking through the mosque’s massive doorway reveals a celestial floor-to-ceiling array of geometric designs, all perfectly symmetric (certainly pleasing to anyone's OCD tendencies). It is clean, modern, technologically impressive: The roof is mechanized, and can be retracted to provide fresh air to the 105,000 worshipers who can fit inside! Oddly, we were told that the mosque was partially a project built in an attempt to "fight against inflation”. This was reportedly a success, as the massive construction project was completed in just 7 years, produced thousands of jobs, and apparently garnered about 2/3 of its nearly $1-billion price tag from public donations.

Lying down on its empty carpeted floor and staring up at the beautiful ceiling is a mesmerizing experience. To us, it produced feelings of emptiness; an almost-unsettling awareness of the vastness of space—a very different sensation compared to the round-contoured mosques of Cairo's Muhammed Ali or Istanbul's Hajia Sophia.

As we tightened our seatbelts in preparation for our flight out of Morocco, a prayer played over the airplane loudspeaker in Arabic, then English. The calm voice wished us safe passage, and good fortune upon return to our families. A peaceful moment of reflection, regardless of culture or creed, we think.

Barcelona - part 1

Our Lessons

Turns out a quick stop-over in Barcelona was one of the cheapest ways to get from Morocco to South America. Barcelona's beautiful winding alleyways are complimented by its wide avenues, arranged in grid-like fashion—quite different compared to many of Europe's other old cities, and certainly easier to navigate. In the city's old Gothic Quarter, we found ourselves delightfully lost in streets filled with coffee and gelato shops.

There is a huge emphasis on art and culture here, with few historic figures more respected than famed architect Antoni Gaudi. Having passed away almost a century ago, it is amazing how much Gaudi's mesmerizing works continue to define and unify this city. First to catch our eyes were the natural curves and blueish-rainbow palette of the "Casa Batlló" (featured above), which can be spotted blocks away from our hotel. It reminded us of a vibrant sea; perhaps a coral reef. Gaudi's focus was to provide calming energy and an "art-integrated-with-nature" feel; for us, he certainly succeeded.

Barcelona - part 2

Our Lessons

What a contrasting experience it was to see two of the world's most enormous and renowned houses of worship, just one day apart: yesterday, we marveled at the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, and today we stared up in wonder at the Sagrada Familia Cathedral here in Barcelona. To us, these two temples produced opposite emotions. If the geometrically-perfect Hassan II Mosque creates a sense of celestial vastness, the soft curves and warm hues of the Sagrada Familia contrastingly provoke a feeling of warmth and oneness with nature. Here, huge concrete columns extend upwards in an arced, uneven fashion, dividing into smaller extensions before reaching the ceiling—like tree branches! Sunrays beam down from stained-glass windows, peeking through the roof, like the canopy of a dense forest. The windows are tinted every color of the rainbow; and these colors are clustered together, drawing out different thoughts depending on which area of the church one is in.

The sense of awe with nature, evoked by the Sagrada Familia's careful attention to asymmetric detail, made it a uniquely memorable place in our travels: although this is a Catholic church, we felt strongly that this is a place where people of all cultures and religions can feel at peace.

Barcelona - part 3

Our Lessons

Why was the Sagrada Familia’s construction started in the 1800s, and yet still not finished today? One reason, we learned, is that the untimely death of Antoni Gaudi marked the loss of a mathematical genius, who was far ahead of his time. Whereas we have computer modeling today, Gaudi created complex upside-down models out of strings and free-hanging weights, which mimicked the forces of gravity on parabolic domes. His advanced engineering techniques and calculations determined the exact geometry of stone necessary to allow the curved domes of his masterpiece to stand the test of time—but upon his death, these techniques literally became lost in history.

Gaudi had become reclusive over the last decades of his life, living within the cathedral itself, in order to focus all of his energy on its construction—to the point that he was no longer recognizable to most people, despite his status as a national celebrity! When he was tragically hit by a tram car, he was disregarded as a disheveled homeless person, and received minimal medical care. By the time people recognized who he was, it was too late to save him. After his death, attempts to pick back up on Gaudi's work were sabotaged by anarchists of the Spanish Civil war, who raided and destroyed all of the constructional models he built. It was only decades later that construction resumed on the Sagrada Familia. Construction was delayed not only by lack of funding (mostly from private donations), but also lack of stone (the quarries yielding the particularly rugged quartz-sandstone initially used in the 1800s had run out). In fact, we are told that in the mid-1900s, much of the stone used to continue the project was recycled from other Barcelona buildings, rather than being dug from the earth. Today, with a steady supply of revenue from tourists and dramatically improved machines to aid in construction, the Sagrada Familia is nearing completion. We are told that it was supposed to be done in 2026, the 100-year anniversary of Gaudi's death; but some sources now predict the date will be pushed back to 2028. At the time of our visit, the tallest central steeple of the church had not yet risen into view. We will absolutely be returning to see this legendary place when it is finally completed.

Barcelona - part 4

Our Lessons

Entering La Boqueria food market immediately enticed us with delicious aromas of freshly-cut Iberian ham and seafood. Pre-prepared Catalonian tapas, freshly-squeezed juices of every color, and an endless amount of chocolates and sweets awaited us at every corner. Unfortunately, the risk of going broke here prevented us from delving into every enticing meal in sight: just a few slices of ham and cheese, or a quarter-sized macaroon, cost 3 Euros each! Luckily, cheaper alternatives can be found away from this higher-end tourist center. One thing is for sure: the sanitation standards of Barcelona’s markets are far superior from those we had just encountered in North Africa; although there is definitely no chance of bargaining for better prices here.

As we explored the surrounding streets, we took a fun detour to a Vietnamese restaurant—marking the end of a 4-month “dry spell” from this most-beloved cuisine for us! The restaurant owner, delighted to speak with someone from his homeland, brought me a free bowl of phở as he shared with us his life story here in Barcelona, where his family has now lived for 40 years. Interestingly, he says he feels safer here than he would in America—because of the lack of universal healthcare, and "all the shooting" that happens there!

Bogota - part 1

Our Lessons

How intimidating was it trying to navigate Colombia’s largest city? Honestly, not as bad as many suggested it would be! Yes, Bogota is a huge place (over 8 million people, sprawled out as far as the eye can see from atop the centrally-located Mount Monserrate). However, for less than $1 USD, it felt easy to wave down any of numerous rickety old buses headed downtown. For those intimidated by the idea of communicating with primarily Spanish-speaking drivers, rideshare apps such as Uber can be used for just a few dollars more, as in any other modern city.

Regardless of mode of transportation, the people in Bogota seemed genuinely friendly and looking to help—and compared to our last big stop (Morocco), in Colombia there did not appear to be a cultural expectation that we needed to provide tips for any act of service. We were warned, however, not to trust the cars: they apparently do not pause to avoid running over pedestrians; rather, it is the pedestrian’s responsibility to get out of the way (even in crosswalks)!

After a frigid winter in Peru, our travel strategy had become, “Chase the summer season, to travel light and stay warm.” Unfortunately, high-altitude places have consistently challenged our expectations of ‘summer’ weather. Not surprisingly, at 2,600 meters above sea level, Bogota’s daily climate seems to jump from sunny-and-hot to dark-and-cold. Thank God for lightweight thermal underwear!

Bogota - part 2

Our Lessons

Luckily, in the cool evenings, Bogota knows how to keep people warm. A unique feature we found here: outdoor vendors serving hard alcohol from wheeled carts, ready to be mixed with all sorts of fruits, herbs and spices. Despite questionable legality, nobody seems to care about alcohol being handed out to street patrons in not-subtle “to-go” cups! And consistent with Eric’s past experience visiting Medellin, in Bogota the spirit of choice is Aguardiente, a liquor made from anise seed. Similar in flavor to Sambuca, this cordial is best served hot!

Continuing our quest to stay warm, our local friend Angela took us to “La Puerta Falsa,” the city’s oldest restaurant. There we had the privilege of enjoying their 200-year old recipe for ajiaco: a delightfully hot, creamy soup with potatoes, corn, chicken and herbs served with avocado. Hearty and satisfying.

The diversity of downtown Bogota’s food is matched by its diversity of beautiful new buildings, intermixed with lovely green parks, fountains, and classic European “colonial” structures. Our most memorable neighborhood of Bogota: Barrio La Candelaria, the so-called “bohemian” district. Wandering the streets, our eyes took in some of the most colorful graffiti murals, which expressed a range of fun, cultural, and political messages.

Bogota - part 3

Our Lessons

There are many unique bars here in La Candelaria; but what really left an impression on us was how ‘accessible’ the social scene is for everyone, free of charge! For instance, in one small square, we encountered a free comedy show, with hundreds of local adults and teenagers seated all over the closed street, relaxing, watching and laughing while casually drinking beer. On the adjacent block, a semi-professional circus took over the plaza, featuring multiple performers doing impressive tricks on their unicycles while juggling balls of fire.

The evening festivities continued late into the night, with clubs on every corner. Going out dancing one night with our new friends, we were impressed with how respectful people were of each other’s space in this fun and casual atmosphere. Furthermore, everyone who stepped onto the dance floor seemed to know how to pull off some impressive moves. We wonder if this was just our positive experience—or if Colombians’ general knowledge of how to dance ‘well’ reduces the need to resort to more ‘grungy/grindy’ forms of dancing.

San Andres - part 1

Our Lessons

A cheap flight from Bogota landed us in Colombia’s little Caribbean island with a “reggae” vibe: San Andres. This is a should-not-miss destination for anyone visiting mainland Colombia. On this island, the water is clear and blue, people are warm and welcoming, and coconut drinks are everywhere. Prices are only a bit higher than mainland Colombia (cheap for foreigners; but unfortunately, still expensive for average Colombians).

San Andres - part 2

Our Lessons

Staying in a beautifully-maintained mansion at the center of the island was a pleasant surprise for us. On arrival, we were initially concerned by the revelation that this magnificent home did not have WiFi. However, it turned out to be a very relaxing time, as no internet meant we were peacefully detached from the unnecessary noise of the world. Because the property was located away from San Andres’ most popular beaches, it cost just $65/night for us to book a large room here, with the freedom to kick back and roam all over the compound. We made good use of the home’s two pools and even helped ourselves to the living room’s large collection of spirits with the owners. We quickly became friends with the charming and accommodating staff, who took care of our breakfast every morning, and even offered to drive us to attractions on the other side of the island.

San Andres - part 3

Our Lessons

There is a lot to enjoy here on San Andres: While the beautiful white sand and turquoise waters of the northern part of the island are indeed picturesque, these are popular tourist beaches, and they were crowded. On the contrary, our favorite spots were the secluded beaches in the south, where the rockier landscapes and an absence of sand produced even more crystal-clear waters. Here, as we walked along an unusual landscape of bleached coral, the rushing waves intermittently funneled water through narrow crevices below our feet, pressurizing and blasting it upwards through “blowhole”-like openings in the rocks. Almost like a geyser!

San Andres - part 4

Our Lessons

Eric’s journey to “Rocky Cay”: a small island away from the shore, requiring a 15-minute swim along thin rope submerged by a high tide. The strong current around the island would certainly make this a red-flag ‘do not swim’ zone in the United States… but apparently Colombians are good swimmers, as hundreds of vacationers navigate these intense currents daily for an opportunity to set foot on Rocky Cay. The reward for safe passage: a well-earned beer on the island’s tiny beach-hut bar.

San Andres - part 5

Our Lessons

Eight miles by two miles in diameter, San Andres is too big to traverse easily on foot. We opted to take the public bus around the island for just $1, instead of renting an expensive golf cart. Little did we realize, the last bus ends early, and it gets packed: crammed in like sardines, we found ourselves standing right next to the exit, with the ground whirring by below us—the old rusty door was wide open of course, tied permanently in place by a thin rope, so that passengers could enter and exit faster! A true “local” experience for us on San Andres, this served as a humbling reminder that outside of tourist areas, most of the homes here are small and seem poor. Many streets on the less-touristy west coast are poorly lit at night, with guard dogs barking behind fences (definitely best to avoid walking this area at night, we learned from experience!). Despite this, our homestay owner believes living conditions are generally better here than in many parts of mainland Colombia.

Leticia, Amazonas, Colombia - part 1

Our Lessons

Gliding over a seemingly infinite expanse of towering trees, our aerial approach towards the Amazonian port town of Leticia felt like landing on the surface of James Cameron's “Pandora.” Leticia is considered a ‘large’ town within the Colombian Amazon; though like most human developments in this region, even the town’s central Santander Square is best known for its animal life, rather than its buildings.

Here, an unforgettable encounter occurs at exactly sunset: within minutes, thousands upon thousands of green parakeets descend from the sky in every direction, pouring into this small park’s scattered palm trees to rest for the evening. Branches sag under the collective weights of dozens of birds settling onto every free inch of space. Their collective squawking was near-deafening… but what an incredible display!

Puerto Nariño, Amazonas, Colombia - part 1

Our Lessons

We embarked the next morning on a small local speedboat, for a two-hour journey up the enormous Amazon River, en route to our destination for the next three nights: Puerto Nariño. On arrival, we were surprised to see that despite this long river journey being the town’s only connection to the outside world, Puerto Nariño is not a ‘small’ village! In fact, several thousand people live here. Unfortunately, despite being a minor tourist destination, evidence was abundant of just how resource-limited this place was: walking just a few blocks past the center of town, most homes were simple tin huts on stilts. ‘Nicer’ buildings, like our hotel, lacked basic supplies (and a firm rule of “just one towel per couple” was enforced!). Cars are not used here; all paved streets are footpaths. Fruit was plentiful—to the point that juice was much cheaper than water; in fact, only boiled water was available for drinking here (no bottles). In a sad story, one evening we observed neighbors carrying a man on a makeshift backboard, to the local clinic. We learned the next day that he had died of a heart attack; he was unable to receive the medical interventions necessary in such a limited setting (the nearest hospital is a two-hour speedboat ride downstream in Leticia).

Puerto Nariño, Amazonas, Colombia - part 2

Our Lessons

Meet Pedro: our fearless Amazon guide and native citizen of Puerto Nariño, who spent his early years exploring and learning about the jungle. Memories with Pedro included a ridiculous night hike, in which we followed behind our machete-wielding adventurer as he hacked straight through the dense bush to create a path for us. With our headlamps, we had no difficulties spotting poisonous centipedes; tucking under active bees’ nests; pausing as Pedro used a stick to remove a snake that was right above my head in the dense trees! If this was not scary enough, Pedro gleefully coaxed tarantulas out of their lairs, then picked them up with his bare hands. Fully confident in his tarantula-holding skills, he brought one right up to our faces to assure we got the best look possible!

How could one possibly top the thrill of nighttime tarantula hunting? What about caiman hunting? proposed Pedro. “Don’t worry, caimans are a bit smaller than crocodiles,” he reassured us! Our next night in the Amazon featured Pedro taking us on a pitch-black Amazon river cruise, driving our motorboat through thick reeds, as we ducked countless spider webs strung between low-hanging vines. Small bioluminescent water bugs could be spotted glowing like tiny white stars in the darkest spots along the sides of the river. Turning our flashlights on, we scanned the reeds for the caimans’ bright photo-reflective eyes. As we approached, Pedro literally JUMPED out of the boat, to try to catch a medium-sized caiman! I’m not sure if I was disappointed or relieved that his efforts were unsuccessful by the end of the night!

Amazon River, Colombia - part 1

Our Lessons

In spite of all this, Eric contends that his “creepiest moment” in the Amazon was the time he decided to dive deep. The mighty river’s water is murky, and in many wider areas it is estimated to be as deep as 70 meters. When the opportunity presented itself, Eric dove off the boat with goggles, swimming down as deep as he could: “Descend just 10 feet, and it gets cold, dark… Soon it became too dark for me to see my hands,” he recounted, “Continuing deeper down, I finally paused to look around, and I was surprised at just how faint the light from the surface was… and that the predominant color was an eerie blood-red. In all other directions, darkness surrounded me; I could no longer see any part of my body, and the frigid temperature change was quite unnerving. Staring upwards as the air in my lungs pulled me slowly back to the surface, things gradually became brighter, and warmer. At that point I was shocked to see the shadows of dozens of fish, some quite large—their dark silhouettes coming into focus between me and the backdrop of the brightening sky above. The experience was so vivid and surreal; it makes me ponder what larger creatures might be lurking deeper down… and whether J.K. Rowling had tried this before describing how wizards feel in the presence of soul-sucking Dementors!”

Amazon River, Colombia - part 2

Our Lessons

Piranhas: terrors of the Amazon? Hopefully not, as we swam in the same waters that we later fished for piranhas in! Actually, we learned it was none other than Teddy Roosevelt who perpetuated the rumor of these fish’s vicious appetites: It is said that in his journeys, the former U.S. President was brought to a remote village, where the locals had trapped dozens of piranhas in a basin. They then threw a live cow into the water… and the piranhas instantly devoured it. However, one important detail is missed from this story: it turns out these piranhas had been starved for weeks. No wonder they were so aggressively hungry! In the real world, piranhas eat small fish like sardines; they rarely attack big predators like humans—the only exception being our tour guide Pedro’s hand, which had been bitten 2 weeks ago by a defensive piranha that had gotten caught in his fishing net. Still, it was a terrifying moment when I successfully caught a piranha with my fishing rod… and the little guy proceeded to gnash his teeth, biting as he flew through the air while we pulled him out of the water. He flopped, twitched, and continued to bite as he landed on the floor of the boat next to our bare feet! I suppose I would have done the same if I were in his situation.

Comunidad San Antonio, Amazonas, Peru - part 1

Our Lessons

A lone customs officer, sitting at a tiny wooden desk at the water’s edge, is all that designates Peru’s immigration “office” on the opposite side of the Amazon River. Since the river itself serves as the dividing line between Colombia and its southern neighbor, getting to Peru was simply a quick boat ride across from Puerto Nariño. Our tour brought us here, because this area was known to be an even denser, taller part of the rainforest. Here we found ficus trees that were hundreds of years old; their dense canopies home to an array of beautiful animals, including the booming red Macaw parakeet, whose ear-piercing screech trumped any noise from the surroundings. One particularly tall tree, with enormous buttressing roots that rise taller than our heads, was discovered to be over 400 years old. A sleepy sloth, too high up for our cameras to capture, paid no attention to our attempts to greet him!

Unfortunately, we are told there is insufficient funding for park rangers to protect such a vast expanse of forest. Although the government may prosecute anyone who is caught burning land to clear it for farming, few offenders are actually caught. However, in an absence of governance, local people have stepped up: Nearby villagers, we are told, have taken it upon themselves to maintain the trails, and reportedly do their best to keep the area safe. So far, the population here remains sparse, so few problems have arisen.

Comunidad San Antonio, Amazonas, Peru - part 2

Our Lessons

Our hearts struggled as we walked through an incredibly-poor town along the Peruvian Amazon. The locals struggle to grow anything permanent here, as it is normal for the river levels to rise dramatically every wet season—which means every year, all crops become swept away in the floods and need to be replanted. Primitive homes have all been constructed on high stilts. Electricity is available only a few hours per day. There is no running water, and during this dry season, we observed locals washing their clothes in a stagnant, dirty-appearing bog. On a positive side, we are told that a nearby public elementary school has, in fact, made free education available to children here.

Unfortunately, we are told it has become a cultural norm for families to discourage their children from pursuing higher education. Our translator, who grew up in the (proportionately) much-larger city of Leticia, blatantly stated her belief that these villagers are stuck in a cycle of “petty survival” because they “don't know any better.” This echoes a common concern from outsiders, who observe the poor standard of living here, and point out that the village families are limited by the fact that they have too many children to support, with no birth control or sex education. The villagers, however, reportedly say they are content with this simplistic life. If these locals are indeed satisfied with their current standard of living, and are not harming the forest, the merits of providing education or outside support becomes a difficult topic.

Puerto Nariño, Amazonas, Colombia - part 3

Our Lessons

In a very unique form of kayaking, we paddled leisurely behind Pedro, who used the spinning blades of his motorboat like a buzzsaw, to clear a path through the dense river reeds ahead of us. With little physical effort but an excess of gasoline, Pedro led us to an island at the center of the lake: one which we are told does not exist during the rainy season, because it is completely submerged underwater! The water level of the Amazon River, we learned, varies drastically; rising and falling an average of several meters sver the course of the years! Walking with sandals over a floor of thick, squishy, composting leaves, and trying our best to tip-toe around countless spider nests, we were thankful we didn’t step on anything we may have regretted. “We try to help our tourists keep an eye out for everything,” our translator reassured us. “No one's gotten hurt in our years of doing this… but if an animal attacks… well you know… nothing’s impossible when you're in the Amazon!” Luckily, we made our journey through the Amazon with all of our limbs attached! Furthermore, this final island stop was a fascinating place to explore (and climb) a grove of enormous intertwining ficus trees.

As we took a final peaceful cruise back to town, we jumped into the water to wave goodbye to a pod of pink river dolphins—beautiful, curious creatures that are only seen in this part of the world!